Although there were many great restaurants and cafes (some fabulous, others somewhat less fabulous), there were three main places that stood out in our minds and would persuade me to fly all the way back to Italy just to experience them again. So in case anyone out there is thinking about taking a trip to Italy, here are my three Italian favorites:
1. Trattoria da Fiore - San Marco 3461, Calle delle Botteghe, Venezia
My husband found this restaurant on our first night in Venice. We had no idea what to expect, but as we watched many locals stream in, we figured it must to be worth the try. We were met by a very friendly staff who seated us at the front of the restaurant right next to the window which allowed for an endless amount of people watching. The restaurant itself was simply yet nicely decorated with a full anti pasta bar that the waiters would prepare mouthwatering plates of food from. After reviewing our menu multiple times, I settled on a simple pasta with fresh crab meat and the husband ordered linguini Frutti di Mare.
Within no time, we were both served the most beautiful bowls of pasta. They were simply prepared, but each bite was perfection. We were both so impressed - and it was the simplicity of the dishes that made them so wonderful. Rather than being weighed down with thick sauces and heavy pastas, we were treated to fresh pastas dressed in light sauces and drizzled with olive oil and seafood that tasted exactly as they should. Our dishes were not over done with spice and cream, instead, they were true to their ingredients, and better for it. The only thing I could have asked for was more.
2. Trattoria le Mossacce - Via del Proconsolo, 55r, Firenze
After our soup, I ordered Cotolette alla Milanese (Veal Cutlets Milanese), and the husband went with Osso Buco, while we shared a side of "sauteed vegetables." The great thing about our table was that we were right next to the kitchen and got to watch as three Italian men whipped up meal after meal and did so with speed. Before I had the chance to get over how wonderful our Ribolitta was, our meals were served. My veal, again so simple and paired only with lemon, was the probably the best piece of veal I've ever had. It was lightly breaded, and bursting with flavor; crisp on the outside, and tender on the inside. When the husband asked for a bite, I contemplated keeping it all for myself (then, quickly thought better of it). Although I did not get a chance to taste his Osso Buco he raved about it for weeks and from my own experience I trust that it was good. And if the first two items were not enough, our side of sauteed vegetables (essentially, a big bowl of spinach) was incredible. It appeared to be prepared in olive oil, and again, with lemon juice. We more or less licked the bowl clean. Walking home after that meal, I think proclaimed Tattoria le Mossecca the best restaurant in all of Italy.
3. Pizzeria Baffetto - Via del Governo Vecchio, 114, Roma
Finally, pizza. Obviously there was quite a bit of pizza in Italy. We had some great finds early on; and then there were a couple places that catered a bit too much to the America taste, disappointing us with their thick, doughy crusts and heavy mounds of plastic-like cheese. But when we made our way off of the tourist track, we found some of the best pizzas in the world.
One of our favorite pizzeria's was in Venice, but our number one place was a hole in the wall joint on a side street in Rome. We had heard of this place earlier in our trip and were told that you had to get there early because there would be a line outside the door. We knew it did not open until 6:30 p.m., so at about a quarter til we made our way over and decided to duck into an Irish bar for a quick drink before dinner. At 6:20 p.m. we left the bar and to our surprise found a line already formed outside of Pizzeria Baffetto. At 6:30 on the dot, the doors burst open and the owner made a joke in Italian, telling us they were closed for the night and told everyone "vada via!" (go away). People looked back and forth at each other not knowing what to do before the owner came back out laughing, and ushered the line inside. Again, we sat at crowded tables with other families (which, by this point, we realized was a good sign that we'd found a great place).
Our meal: bruschetta with tomatoes, mushrooms, beans, olives and prosciutto, drizzled with olive oil and topped with sea salt. Next, the thinnest pizza (I am talking about cracker thin crust) topped with fresh mozzarella, zucchini flowers, and artichokes. Although the toppings were too slim (I personally would have added more) the pizza was so thin and cooked so perfectly in a wood burning stove, that by the end of our meal we were actually contemplating ordering another one. We ended up resisting, but with that, Baffetto became our favorite pizzeria. It was the only place that we found that perfected the cracker thin crust, and the energy within the restaurant added extra points to an already fabulous meal.
There were many other places, in many other cities that we truly enjoyed (I had an amazing pumpkin ravioli and a superb stuffed squid, both in Rome) but these three, without any debate, were our favorites. Each served a different type of true Italian cooking and each left us wanting another round. So if any of you find yourselves heading to Italy, trust me when I say, you must go to these eateries. You will not be disappointed.
Oh and just in case anyone is wondering, the best gelato I had was "Peanut"- truly amazing and worth every last calorie. Adam claims his favorite was "Amaretto" (but he had at least seven "ciocolattos," so I think he might just be trying to sound cultured). I am still sticking with Peanut as the best. Perhaps someone else can make their way to Italy and cast a much needed third vote for us.
